The boat itinerary covers the Southern part of Lake Maggiore, going back and forth between Piedmont and Lombardy. The itinerary can start from Arona, and end in Stresa, or you can do it the other way around, starting from Stresa and ending in Arona.
This portion of boat trip takes about one hour, half an hour the Avengers the hydrofoil, but you will savor the lake much better with the normal slow boat. With the low season there are only a few runs of the boat, about three in the morning and two in the afternoon, and the service is suspended during some months, so check the most recent schedule before going.
If you start early enough in the morning, you can get off the boat at an intermediate landing, visit the place and wait for the next boat, that will arrive in about one hour (check the schedule).
You can easily reach Arona from Milan in about one hour train ride, on the Trenitalia state railway company, along the Sempione (Simplon) line. The same train line stops also in Stresa, so you have a choice of possible combinations Friendship 7 reach one starting point and leave from another different destination point. It takes between 12 and 17 minutes for the train to cover the distance between Stresa and Arona.
Of course you can also reach Arona, or Stresa, with a Car, there is an autostrada that runs on the Piedmont side of Lake Maggiore, and there are exits at both Arona and Stresa.
Arona
Arona is an important industrial, commercial and tourist center favored by the Sempione railway line and situated in an excellent position, fronting Angera and at the slopes of Mt. Vergante. Perhaps already notes in the Roman era, the first historical news dates back to the 11th century, when a captain of Ottone I had a Benedictine convent built. Of the battles between Torriani and Visconti, which they bitterly fought over this center, they can still be seen, the ruins of the Rocca that originally dominated a crag from on high; but most of all it was the Borromeos who established their feudal residence, maintaining their rule from the 5th to 18th century, representing a historical and cultural presence of major importance.
The most ancient nucleus of the city extends up to the hills and opens onto the beautiful Piazza del Popolo where the third Sunday of each month a tiny quaint antique market is held and where the mannerist Church of the Madonna di Piazza - end of the 16th century work of Pellegrino Tibaldi, preceded by a suggestive tiny flight of steps of two ramps - a and a progression of buildings with arcades, among them the House of Podesta' or the 16th cent. Palazzo di Giustizia (House of justice).
Another sacred buildings of particular importance is the 15th cent. Collegiata (Collegiate Church) di Santa Maria Nascente, completed on the 17th cent. by Cardinal Federico Borromeo. Internationally renowned is then the monumental statue of San Carlo Borromeo, native of Arona, the then San Carlone: an enormous copper colossus (it is possible to visit it inside), more than 20 meters tall which, poised on high granite pedestal (11 meters), dominates the hill from on high; it was completed at the end of the 17th. cent. by Bernardo Falconi and Siro Zanelli upon the stock of a design by the celebrated painter Cerano and on the initiative of the Oblate 1971 Topps baseball cards Aurelio Grattarolo with the support of his cousin Carlo, Federico Borromeo.
In the square where the statue stands there is also the 17th cent. Seminary and the Church of San Carlo both by Francesco Richini. At Arona each year during the month of May there is an important trade fair.
Angera
The boat leaves from the wharf a short distance from the railway station, and crosses the lake and lands an the Lombardy shore, at Angera, developed on the hillside overhanging, from which it dominates whit a splendid view of Verbano, the famous ancient Fortress.
Today a renowned holiday site, as well as industrial center, Angera goes back to prehistoric days, as attest the Mesolithic and Neolithic era findings discovered in the open grotto on the hill and recorder with the name "Tana del Lupo"(Den of Wolves) or "Antro di Mithra" (Mithra's Cavern), from the oriental divinity cult practiced during the Roman era, when the center was called Stazzona. Some of these findings are in exhibition at the Municipal Museum.
Along the lake-front localized horse-chestnut trees and facing the only island of the take - the little Pantegora Island encircled in reed thickets - the Fortress, that develops along the rocky crag.
To the imposing 13th cent. Tower, starting from the more ancient nucleus, the Viscount residence and the so-called "Scaligera wing" were added between the 14th and 15th EC Comics until it reaches, between the 6th an 7th centuries, the present installations at U. Notable, besides the building in itself, the patrimony of historical and artistic value that are preserved inside it: from the 14th cent. frescoes of the beautiful Sala di Giustizia to those of gothic courtly taste coming from the Palazzo Borromeo in Milan (damaged by the 1943 bombardments).
Moreover, for some years now, the building is the residence of the interesting Doll Museum, a collection of close to 200 dolls and games that came from the private collection of Princess Bona Borromeo. The Rocca di Angera (Angera Fortress) and the Doll Museum can be visited in season.
Meina
Setting off from Angera once again, having Arona opposite, the boat passes through the narrowest part of all the lake (two km), heading once again towards the Piedmontese shore, where, at the foot of the green Vergante hills, they come one after the other splendid villas enclosed in parks and gardens, among which the late neoclassical Villa Faraggiana. We reach Meina, a pleasant tourist resort, known in the Middle Ages as Medina, where the writer and politician Cesare Cant resided and died.
Lesa
In the following boat ride that hugs the coast from Meina to Lesa you can spot other villas and parks, like that of Villa Cella that is very large and spreads out up to the lake, or that of Villa Cavallini rich in rare botanical species. The small town, situated in a tiny inlet, is the goal holiday resorts and seat of lively industrial activity. The most significant monument of the locality remains the Palazzo Stampa, faced on to the lake-front, where personalities like Manzoni and Cavour used to stay.
Belgirate
Five minutes from Lesa the boat dock at Belgirate, on the Piedmont shore a charming tourist locality endowed with numerous hotels, and with an intense congress activity.
Here in 1858, the first Italian Oarsmen Society was founded and a historical regatta attended by Mazzini, Cavour, Garibaldi and d'Azeglio, took place.
While in the northern part of the built up area rise quaint houses with arcades and loggias, on the lake-front rises the baroque Parrocchiale with 17-18th cent. frescoes. Famous names from the political history and culture of our 19th century are, moreover associated with two villas: Villa Bono Cairoli where Benedetto Cairoli lived and in 1869 Giovanni died; and Villa Carlotta, where Rosmini, Gozzano, Manzoni and others resided.
Stresa
A little later the boat docks in one of the most prestigious and famous resident localities of Europe: Stresa, situated in extraordinary position, opposite the Borromeo gulf and at the slopes of Mt. Mottarone. From Stresa going 9 Km. on the scenic road "La Borromea" in 30 minutes you reach the summit of Mottarone (1491 meters) from which you enjoy a spacious view over seven lakes.
The ski and tourist station can be reached also by the Stresa-Mottarone cable-way that goes from the Lake to the Alpine landscape in 18 minutes (operating all year round, except the month of November, with a frequency of 20 minutes from 9.00 to 12.00 and from 13.40 to 17.50).
It was in the mid- 19th century, with the first English travelers, and at the beginning of the 20th, that Stresa, assumed that unique elegant look. Resort spot, and important center of cultural exhibitions (such as the annual edition of the "Musical Weeks"), of conventions and international meetings. Onto the beautiful beach of the lake-front the piazza Marconi opens with the wharf and the Parrocchiale di S. Ambrogio, rebuilt in neoclassic style by Giuseppe Zanoja in 1790. At its back the Ducal Villa is visible, built in 1770, where Antonio Rosmini died, commemorated by the International Center of Rosminiani Studies of which the villa is headquarter.
The greatest asset of Stresa's position remains the splendid bird's eye view over the lake. The wide view from the Lombardy shore with Cerro and Laveno up to the Rocca di Calde', to that Piedmontese, with the Point Castagnola, Pallanza and, on the right, the profile of the Rosso Mts. (Red Mts., 613 meters), up to the Ossola mountains.
The archipelago of the Borromeo Isles, traditional site of enchantment, is connected to Stresa every half hour by the N.L.M. (Lake Maggiore Navigation) boats.
From Stresa you can take the Trenitalia state railway back to Arona and Milano. In alternative you can take the longer boat trip via the Borromee islands, as highlighted on this itinerary.
Enrico is an Italian living in Washington, DC. He is a freelance writer and internet marketing expert, specializing in SEO for individuals and small companies, and the owner of the TangoItalia.com web site, a site on Travel, food, wine, and... tango in Italy.
